{"id":1949,"date":"2020-07-11T20:00:18","date_gmt":"2020-07-11T20:00:18","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/?p=1949"},"modified":"2020-07-11T20:15:57","modified_gmt":"2020-07-11T20:15:57","slug":"jof-di-montasio-2-754m-nejvyssi-vrchol-italske-casti-julskych-alp","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/2020\/07\/11\/jof-di-montasio-2-754m-nejvyssi-vrchol-italske-casti-julskych-alp\/","title":{"rendered":"J\u00f4f di Montasio (2 754m) – nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed vrchol italsk\u00e9 \u010d\u00e1sti Julsk\u00fdch Alp"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\n

„D\u00edv\u00e1me-li se na n\u011bj odkudkoli, pak nikde nenajdeme m\u00edsto, odkud by se poda\u0159ilo jin\u00e9mu horsk\u00e9mu seskupen\u00ed p\u0159ekonat nebo sn\u00ed\u017eit jeho postavu a sn\u00ed\u017eit dojem jeho mohutnosti a s\u00edly. Monta\u017e r\u00e1d a s \u00fasp\u011bchem odsunuje do pozad\u00ed v\u0161echny vrcholy ve sv\u00e9m okol\u00ed a r\u00e1d se p\u0159edv\u00e1d\u00ed se svou imponuj\u00edc\u00ed v\u00fd\u0161kou.“ <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Julius Kugy, Ze \u017eivota horolezce <\/em><\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

J\u00f4f di Montasio, zvan\u00fd tak\u00e9 Monta\u017e, se d\u00edky sv\u00e9 v\u00fd\u0161ce 2 754 metr\u016f py\u0161n\u00ed titulem nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edho vrcholu italsk\u00e9 \u010d\u00e1sti Julsk\u00fdch Alp, a po Triglavu je i druh\u00fdm nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edm vrcholem cel\u00e9ho poho\u0159\u00ed. Co ale oproti sv\u00e9mu slovinsk\u00e9mu bratrovi ztr\u00e1c\u00ed na v\u00fd\u0161ce, to doh\u00e1n\u00ed n\u00e1ro\u010dnost\u00ed v\u00fdstupu – na vrchol Monta\u017ee nen\u00ed mo\u017en\u00e9 vystoupit jinak, ne\u017e exponovan\u00fdm a velmi strm\u00fdm ter\u00e9nem, nebo po zaji\u0161t\u011bn\u00fdch cest\u00e1ch. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aby nep\u016fsobil jen „nep\u0159\u00e1telsk\u00fdm“ dojmem, velk\u00fdm pozitivem je alespo\u0148 pom\u011brn\u011b vysoko polo\u017een\u00e9 v\u00fdstupov\u00e9 m\u00edsto, d\u00edky \u010demu\u017e nen\u00ed pro dosa\u017een\u00ed vrcholu pot\u0159eba p\u0159ekon\u00e1vat z\u00e1vratn\u00e9 v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 metry, jako tomu naopak jinde v Julsk\u00fdch Alp\u00e1ch b\u00fdv\u00e1 pravidlem. Krom\u011b toho je okol\u00ed Monta\u017ee obklopeno rozlehl\u00fdmi horsk\u00fdmi loukami, kter\u00e9 jsou opravdov\u00fdm r\u00e1jem kozoro\u017ec\u016f – pokud v hor\u00e1ch tou\u017e\u00edte n\u011bjak\u00e9ho potkat, tady o n\u011b budete zaru\u010den\u011b doslova zakop\u00e1vat. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Poprv\u00e9 jsem o v\u00fdstupu na Montasio za\u010dala p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161let p\u0159i \u010dten\u00ed knihy Ze \u017eivota horolezce<\/em> od legend\u00e1rn\u00edho pr\u016fkopn\u00edka horolezectv\u00ed v Julsk\u00fdch Alp\u00e1ch, Julia Kugyho. V knize o n\u011bm p\u00ed\u0161e s takov\u00fdm nad\u0161en\u00edm a obdivem, \u017ee jsem zatou\u017eila se s t\u00edmto velik\u00e1nem „osobn\u011b setkat“. Pro v\u00fdstup jsme si zvolili jednu z t\u011bch jednodu\u0161\u0161\u00edch n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00fdch cest – a to z ji\u017en\u00ed strany z oblasti Sella Nevea. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ve stejnojmenn\u00e9 obci jsme z hlavn\u00ed silnice (Via Friuli<\/em>) odbo\u010dili na \u00fazkou a velmi strmou vysokohorskou silni\u010dku, po kter\u00e9 jsme pokra\u010dovali a\u017e na neplacen\u00e9 parkovi\u0161t\u011b pod chatou Giacomo di Brazz\u00e1 (1 660m). Od chaty jsme se podle rozcestn\u00edku vydali sm\u011brem k vrcholu Cima di Terrarossa (2 420m), kde jsme m\u011bli v pl\u00e1nu se napojit na zaji\u0161t\u011bnou cestu Augusto ed Elenita Leva (C). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Od chaty sm\u011brem k Cima di Terrarossa ji\u017e cesta za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 postupn\u011b nab\u00edrat na v\u00fd\u0161ce – na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed ale nejde o \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 \u00famorn\u00e9 stoup\u00e1n\u00ed, tak\u017ee si m\u016f\u017eeme v klidu u\u017e\u00edvat n\u00e1dhern\u00e9 v\u00fdhledy na prot\u011bj\u0161\u00ed masiv Kaninu, a samoz\u0159ejm\u011b fotit v\u0161udy p\u0159\u00edtomn\u00e9 kozoro\u017ece. <\/p>\n\n\n

\"\"
V\u00fdhled na masiv Kaninu na hranici It\u00e1lie a Slovinska<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>
\n
\"\"
Cesta od chaty Brazz\u00e1 sm\u011brem k Cima di Terrarossa<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n\n\n

Po cca 800 v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch metrech se cesta rozd\u011bluje – je mo\u017en\u00e9 pokra\u010dovat je\u0161t\u011b asi 100 v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch a\u017e na vrchol Cima di Terrarossa, nebo odbo\u010dit na zaji\u0161t\u011bnou cestu Augusto ed Elenita Leva. Abychom m\u011bli dostate\u010dnou \u010dasovou rezervu, nasadili jsme sed\u00e1ky a pokra\u010dovali tedy rovnou na via ferratu. Ta nen\u00ed technicky nijak n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e1 a je dob\u0159e zaji\u0161t\u011bn\u00e1, ov\u0161em n\u011bkter\u00e9 pas\u00e1\u017ee mohou b\u00fdt trochu nep\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9. Asi prvn\u00ed takov\u00e9 m\u00edsto n\u00e1s \u010dekalo hned na za\u010d\u00e1tku – po cca 300 metrech ferraty se nach\u00e1z\u00ed kr\u00e1tk\u00fd lanov\u00fd \u017eeb\u0159\u00edk pro sestup do sedla Forca del Palone, kter\u00fd je ale m\u00edsty neukotven\u00fd a p\u0159i lezen\u00ed dol\u016f se k\u00fdv\u00e1 ze strany na stranu. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ze sedla za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 ferrata op\u011bt stoupat, a\u017e na velmi strm\u00fd travnat\u00fd svah. Pot\u00e9 u\u017e ferrata prakticky jen traverzuje masiv Monta\u017ee, m\u00edsty po velmi exponovan\u00fdch skaln\u00edch plotn\u00e1ch, kter\u00e9 jsme si ale neskute\u010dn\u011b u\u017e\u00edvali. Pokud ale \u010dlov\u011bk zrovna neholduje vzdu\u0161n\u00fdm a uzou\u010dk\u00fdm cesti\u010dk\u00e1m, tuhle cestu bych rad\u011bji nedoporu\u010dovala :). <\/p>\n\n\n

\"\"
Sedlo Forca del Palone<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>
\n
\"\"
V\u00fdhledy ze sedla Forca del Palone<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"
Traverz masivu Monta\u017ee<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n

Ferrata se napojuje na klasickou p\u011b\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdstupovou cestu, po kter\u00e9 je mo\u017en\u00e9 vystoupat posledn\u00edch 300 v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch metr\u016f na vrchol. T\u00edm by se ale \u010dlov\u011bk ochudil o tu nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed „t\u0159e\u0161ni\u010dku na dortu“, kterou se Monta\u017e py\u0161n\u00ed – 60 metr\u016f dlouh\u00fd ocelov\u00fd \u017eeb\u0159\u00edk Scala Pipan, jeho\u017e historie sah\u00e1 a\u017e do obdob\u00ed prvn\u00ed sv\u011btov\u00e9 v\u00e1lky. K \u017eeb\u0159\u00edku je pot\u0159eba vystoupat strm\u00fdm su\u0165ovi\u0161t\u011bm, a pot\u00e9 kr\u00e1tkou ferratou. My jsme vyr\u00e1\u017eeli na konci \u010dervna, tak\u017ee bylo su\u0165ovi\u0161t\u011b je\u0161t\u011b pokryt\u00e9 sn\u011bhov\u00fdmi poli, na kter\u00e9 n\u00e1m ale posta\u010dily jen h\u016flky. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u017deb\u0159\u00edk je pevn\u011b ukotven\u00fd ve sk\u00e1le, a i kdy\u017e trochu vypad\u00e1, \u017ee u\u017e toho m\u00e1 dost za sebou, je opravdu pevn\u00fd. Nav\u00edc je na sk\u00e1lu sp\u00ed\u0161e „polo\u017een\u00fd“, tak\u017ee je lezen\u00ed i p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9. Od \u017eeb\u0159\u00edku n\u00e1m na vrchol zb\u00fdv\u00e1 u\u017e asi jen 150 v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch metr\u016f, tentokr\u00e1t u\u017e sp\u00ed\u0161e neji\u0161t\u011bn\u00e9ho lezen\u00ed po h\u0159ebeni. M\u00edsty by se ale ji\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed ur\u010dit\u011b hodilo – h\u0159eb\u00ednek je toti\u017e dost exponovan\u00fd a \u00fazk\u00fd. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Z Monta\u017ee jsou n\u00e1dhern\u00e9 v\u00fdhledy na okoln\u00ed vrcholy, jako nap\u0159\u00edklad Monte Nabois, J\u00f4f Fuart a dokonce i Triglav. Samoz\u0159ejm\u011b jsme si ale p\u0159ed sestupem prost\u011b museli zazvonit na vrcholov\u00fd zvon – zaj\u00edmav\u00e1 zm\u011bna oproti klasick\u00fdm vrcholov\u00fdm k\u0159\u00ed\u017e\u016fm. K sestupu jsme zvolili stejnou trasu, zp\u011bt po h\u0159ebeni k \u017eeb\u0159\u00edku Scala Pipan, u kter\u00e9ho jsme ale pokra\u010dovali d\u00e1le po klasick\u00e9 p\u011b\u0161\u00ed zna\u010den\u00e9 cest\u011b a\u017e do sedla Forca verde. Nutno ale \u0159\u00edct, \u017ee cesta je to opravdu v\u00fd\u017eivn\u00e1 – vede toti\u017e velmi strm\u00fdm a exponovan\u00fdm travnat\u00fdm svahem. Jak bych \u0159ekla hovorov\u011b – j\u00edt tenhle \u00fasek za de\u0161t\u011b, to fakt nechce\u0161. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pomalu a opatrn\u011b jsme tedy sestupovali, a\u017e jsme se napojili zp\u011bt na su\u0165ovi\u0161t\u011b pod \u017eeb\u0159\u00edkem. Pokra\u010dovali jsme d\u00e1le po zna\u010den\u00e9 cest\u011b zp\u011bt do \u00fadol\u00ed, sm\u011brem k chat\u011b Giacomo di Brazz\u00e1, a naposledy jsme si u\u017e\u00edvali posledn\u00ed pohledy na travnat\u00e9 louky s pasouc\u00edmi se kozoro\u017eci. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

V\u00fdstup na Monta\u017e je rozhodn\u011b skv\u011bl\u00fdm z\u00e1\u017eitkem, kter\u00fd bych ale ur\u010dit\u011b doporu\u010dila jen zku\u0161en\u011bj\u0161\u00edm turist\u016fm. I kdy\u017e nen\u00ed pot\u0159eba p\u0159ekonat tolik v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch metr\u016f, je nutn\u00e9 po\u010d\u00edtat s velkou \u010dasovou rezervou – n\u00e1m v\u00fdstup i sestup zabral asi 9 hodin. Podm\u00ednkou je tak\u00e9 rozhodn\u011b stabiln\u00ed a hezk\u00e9 po\u010das\u00ed. Za mokra toti\u017e m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt hlavn\u011b sestup strm\u00fdm travnat\u00fdm svahem opravdu velmi nebezpe\u010dn\u00fd. <\/p>\n\n\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"
Scala Pipan<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"
Vrchol Monta\u017ee<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"
Pohled na masiv Monta\u017ee<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

„D\u00edv\u00e1me-li se na n\u011bj odkudkoli, pak nikde nenajdeme m\u00edsto, odkud by se poda\u0159ilo jin\u00e9mu horsk\u00e9mu seskupen\u00ed p\u0159ekonat nebo sn\u00ed\u017eit jeho […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2009,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1949","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1949","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1949"}],"version-history":[{"count":115,"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1949\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2139,"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1949\/revisions\/2139"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2009"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1949"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1949"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1949"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}