{"id":4436,"date":"2023-08-31T10:31:28","date_gmt":"2023-08-31T10:31:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/?p=4436"},"modified":"2023-08-31T10:31:31","modified_gmt":"2023-08-31T10:31:31","slug":"hrebenova-stezka-ceria-merlone-v-italskych-julskych-alpach","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/2023\/08\/31\/hrebenova-stezka-ceria-merlone-v-italskych-julskych-alpach\/","title":{"rendered":"H\u0159ebenov\u00e1 stezka Ceria-Merlone v italsk\u00fdch Julsk\u00fdch Alp\u00e1ch"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Kdy\u017e se mluv\u00ed o Julsk\u00fdch Alp\u00e1ch, v\u011bt\u0161ina lid\u00ed si jako prvn\u00ed vybav\u00ed poho\u0159\u00ed le\u017e\u00edc\u00ed ve Slovinsku, i kdy\u017e zasahuj\u00ed i d\u00e1le na z\u00e1pad sm\u011brem do It\u00e1lie, konkr\u00e9tn\u011b do oblasti kolem jezera Predil. A jeliko\u017e si italsk\u00e9 Alpy lid\u00e9 sp\u00ed\u0161e spojuj\u00ed s mnohem obl\u00edben\u011bj\u0161\u00edmi Dolomity, je tato \u010d\u00e1st „Julek“ naprosto ide\u00e1ln\u00edm m\u00edstem k n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bv\u011b, pokud nechcete potk\u00e1vat davy lid\u00ed. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed horu italsk\u00fdch Julsk\u00fdch Alp, J\u00f3f di Montasio\/Monta\u017e (2 754m), jsme si ze seznamu vylezen\u00fdch vrchol\u016f od\u0161krtli p\u0159ed p\u00e1r lety. Tehdy m\u011b ale p\u0159i pl\u00e1nov\u00e1n\u00ed trasy v map\u011b zaujala h\u0159ebenov\u00e1 stezka „Ceria-Merlone“, na kterou navazuje dal\u0161\u00ed h\u0159ebenov\u00e1 stezka „Anita Goitan“, a kter\u00e9 spole\u010dn\u011b spojuj\u00ed masiv Monta\u017ee s jeho o n\u011bco ni\u017e\u0161\u00edm kolegou, vrcholem J\u00f3f Fuart\/Vi\u0161 (2 666m). T\u00edm p\u00e1dem mi na seznam „rest\u016f“ p\u0159ibyla dal\u0161\u00ed polo\u017eka, na kterou, kone\u010dn\u011b, letos b\u011bhem \u010dervnov\u00fdch sv\u00e1tk\u016f tak\u00e9 do\u0161lo. B\u016fh \u017eehnej v\u0161em hl\u00eddac\u00edm babi\u010dk\u00e1m!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Po\u010das\u00ed n\u00e1m p\u0159\u00e1lo, tak\u017ee jsme vyrazili sbalen\u00ed na variantu „sp\u00edme pod \u0161ir\u00e1kem“, a s pl\u00e1nem „uvid\u00edme, kam dojdeme“. Samoz\u0159ejm\u011b v\u00fdstup na J\u00f3f Fuart n\u00e1s velice l\u00e1kal, nicm\u00e9n\u011b jsme jej brali jen jako p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fd bonus v p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b ide\u00e1ln\u00edch \u010dasov\u00fdch podm\u00ednek – na t\u00faru jsme m\u011bli toti\u017e pouze necel\u00e9 dva dny, tak\u017ee jsme se zam\u011b\u0159ili prim\u00e1rn\u011b na trasu „Ceria-Merlone“. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

V odpoledn\u00edch hodin\u00e1ch jsme dorazili na parkovi\u0161t\u011b pod chatou Giacomo di Brazz\u00e1, kter\u00e9 se nach\u00e1z\u00ed na m\u00edst\u011b zvan\u00e9m Altopiano del Montasio, asi 4 kilometry od zn\u00e1m\u00e9ho horsk\u00e9ho st\u0159ediska Sella Nevea. T\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 pln\u00e9 parkovi\u0161t\u011b n\u00e1s nejd\u0159\u00edv trochu vyd\u011bsilo, brzy jsme ale pochopili, \u017ee v\u011bt\u0161ina turist\u016f m\u00ed\u0159\u00ed pouze na chatu, nebo na n\u011bkterou z nedalek\u00fdch sala\u0161\u00ed a pohostinstv\u00ed – s velk\u00fdmi batohy jsme tedy mezi nalehko vybaven\u00fdmi turisty dost vy\u010dn\u00edvali. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

K chat\u011b Brazz\u00e1 jsme po pohodln\u00e9 \u0161irok\u00e9 st\u011brkov\u00e9 silnici dorazili asi za dvacet minut, ale nijak jsme se nezdr\u017eovali a rovnou pokra\u010dovali d\u00e1le. Kousek za chatou u\u017e se cesta zu\u017euje a po p\u00e1r metrech i rozd\u011bluje – z lev\u00e9 strany se napojuje „via normale“ na Jof di Montasio, zat\u00edmco stezka v\u00edce vpravo v\u00e1s dovede nap\u0159\u00edklad na vrchol Cima di Terrarossa (2 420m), a z\u00e1rove\u0148 tak\u00e9 sm\u011brem k m\u00edstu, ke kter\u00e9mu jsme se pot\u0159ebovali dostat my. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Od rozcest\u00ed n\u00e1s \u010dekalo n\u00e1s t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 700 v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch metr\u016f k sedlu Forca di Terrarossa (2 349m), kde se nach\u00e1z\u00ed odbo\u010dka k bivaku Luca Vuerich, kde jsme m\u011bli v pl\u00e1nu p\u0159espat. Cesta na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed pom\u011brn\u011b p\u0159\u00edjemn\u011b stoup\u00e1 serpentinami, nav\u00edc s n\u00e1dhern\u00fdmi v\u00fdhledy na prot\u011bj\u0161\u00ed vrchol Kaninu na hranici Slovinska a It\u00e1lie. K odbo\u010dce, tedy k m\u00edstu kde za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 samotn\u00e9 stezka „Ceria-Merlone“, jsme dorazili asi za hodinku a p\u016fl, nicm\u00e9n\u011b ur\u010dit\u011b se d\u00e1 dos\u00e1hnout i lep\u0161\u00edho \u010dasu – to by ale \u010dlov\u011bk nesm\u011bl fotit ka\u017ed\u00e9ho kozoro\u017ece, kter\u00e9ho na trase potk\u00e1 (a \u017ee jich tu opravdu je). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pokud budete pokra\u010dovat je\u0161t\u011b d\u00e1le sm\u011brem do sedla Forca di Terrarossa, zanedlouho potk\u00e1te odbo\u010dku na ferratu „Augusto ed Elenita Leva“, kter\u00e1 by v\u00e1s zase dovedla na vrchol Monta\u017ee – ale o tom v\u00edce ve \u010dl\u00e1nku: https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/2020\/07\/11\/jof-di-montasio-2-754m-nejvyssi-vrchol-italske-casti-julskych-alp\/<\/a> . <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Od odbo\u010dky u\u017e jsme potkali n\u011bkolik lid\u00ed, kte\u0159\u00ed byli zrovna na sestupu, a od kter\u00fdch jsme postupn\u011b z\u00edsk\u00e1vali informace o obsazenosti bivaku. Dop\u0159edu jsme tak v\u011bd\u011bli, \u017ee n\u00e1s s jistotou \u010dek\u00e1 span\u00ed pod \u0161ir\u00e1kem – bivak m\u00e1 toti\u017e kapacitu jen asi 8 m\u00edst, nicm\u00e9n\u011b spousta lid\u00ed \u00fadajn\u011b m\u00ed\u0159\u00ed pouze na n\u011bj p\u0159espat, a pot\u00e9 zase stejnou cestou zp\u011bt. Co\u017e n\u00e1s ale v\u016fbec netr\u00e1pilo, naopak vzhledem k jasn\u00e9mu po\u010das\u00ed jsme se na tuto variantu moc t\u011b\u0161ili. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Po kr\u00e1tk\u00e9m traverzu travnat\u00fdm svahem jsme za\u010dali stoupat su\u0165oviskem do sedla Forca de lis Sieris (2 274m), do kter\u00e9ho jsme dorazili za necelou p\u016fl hodinku. Objevili jsme zde pl\u00e1cek, kter\u00fd se n\u00e1m ihned za\u010dal zamlouvat jako ide\u00e1ln\u00ed m\u00edsto k p\u0159esp\u00e1n\u00ed, ale po bli\u017e\u0161\u00edm ohled\u00e1n\u00ed m\u00edsta jsme tuto variantu ihned zavrhli. Bivak ve sk\u00e1le byl bohu\u017eel vyho\u0159el\u00fd a pln\u00fd nepo\u0159\u00e1dku, tak\u017ee n\u00e1m nezb\u00fdvalo ne\u017e pokra\u010dovat d\u00e1le. Ze sedla n\u00e1s \u010dekal op\u011bt kra\u0165ou\u010dk\u00fd v\u00fdstup su\u0165\u00ed a\u017e k n\u00e1stupu na jednoduchou ferratu (B-B\/C), kterou je to k bivaku u\u017e pouh\u00fdch cca 40 minut.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ferrata je dob\u0159e zaji\u0161t\u011bn\u00e1 a opravdu jednoduch\u00e1, na n\u011bkter\u00fdch m\u00edstech ale ji\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed chyb\u00ed – v\u011bt\u0161inou se jedn\u00e1 o \u00fazk\u00e9 chodn\u00ed\u010dky nebo traverzy, ale nejedn\u00e1 se o \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 nebezpe\u010dn\u00e1 m\u00edsta, pokud je \u010dlov\u011bk alespo\u0148 trochu zvykl\u00fd pohybovat se v horsk\u00e9m ter\u00e9nu. K bivaku Luca Vuerich, kter\u00fd le\u017e\u00ed na vrcholku Foronon del Buinz (2 531m), jsme dorazili nave\u010der asi kolem 18. hodiny. Bivak byl skute\u010dn\u011b pln\u00fd, i n\u011bkolik dal\u0161\u00edch lid\u00ed ji\u017e m\u011blo p\u0159ipraven\u00e1 m\u00edsta k p\u0159esp\u00e1n\u00ed venku. N\u00e1m se poda\u0159ilo naj\u00edt postaven\u00e9 z\u00e1v\u011bt\u0159\u00ed, ide\u00e1ln\u011b velk\u00e9 pro t\u0159i spac\u00e1ky, nav\u00edc skv\u011bl\u00e9 skryt\u00e9 p\u0159ed zraky hlou\u010dku pohybuj\u00edc\u00edho se u bivaku. P\u0159ed z\u00e1padem slunce jsme m\u011bli je\u0161t\u011b spoustu \u010dasu se p\u0159evl\u00e9ci, p\u0159ipravit si span\u00ed, a v klidu si vychutnat ve\u010de\u0159i. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Prvn\u00ed den jsme m\u011bli za sebou asi 7 kilometr\u016f a 1 100 v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch metr\u016f. \u010casov\u011b n\u00e1m cesta vy\u0161la asi na 4 hodiny, v\u010detn\u011b p\u0159est\u00e1vek na j\u00eddlo a focen\u00ed. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Cesta od parkovi\u0161t\u011b k chat\u011b Rifugio Brazz\u00e1<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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V\u00fdhled na masiv Kaninu<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Uprost\u0159ed masiv Monta\u017ee<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Cesta do sedla Forca de lis Sieris (2 274m)<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Jednoduch\u00e1 ferrata vedouc\u00ed ze sedla Forca de lis Sieris<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Z\u00e1v\u011bt\u0159\u00ed ide\u00e1ln\u00ed pro p\u0159esp\u00e1n\u00ed kousek pod bivakem Luca Vuerich<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Z\u00e1pad slunce s v\u00fdhledy na Jof di Montasio\/Monta\u017e<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Bivak Luca Vuerich<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Druh\u00fd den r\u00e1no jsme, nejsp\u00ed\u0161 vlivem kvalitn\u00edho \u010derstv\u00e9ho vzduchu, vst\u00e1vali a vyr\u00e1\u017eeli jako posledn\u00ed, a tak jsme alespo\u0148 m\u011bli p\u0159\u00edle\u017eitost si v klidu prohl\u00e9dnout bivak. Stejn\u011b, kdo by ale m\u011bnil span\u00ed venku s neust\u00e1l\u00fdm no\u010dn\u00edm \u010dmuch\u00e1n\u00edm kozoro\u017ec\u016f kolem za \u00fatuln\u00fd prostor a postele s matracemi? <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Od bivaku n\u00e1s \u010dekal kr\u00e1tk\u00fd zaji\u0161t\u011bn\u00fd sestup do sedla Sella Buinz (2 460m), kde jsme tak\u00e9 narazili na pekn\u00fd pl\u00e1cek l\u00e1kaj\u00edc\u00ed k p\u0159esp\u00e1n\u00ed. Bohu\u017eel, ale po bli\u017e\u0161\u00ed prohl\u00eddce s naprosto stejn\u00fdm sc\u00e9n\u00e1\u0159em jako v sedle Forca de lis Sieris – m\u00edsto bylo vyho\u0159el\u00e9 a pln\u00e9 odpadk\u016f. Tak jsme si tak trochu posteskli nad chov\u00e1n\u00edm lid\u00ed v hor\u00e1ch, ale n\u00e1ladu n\u00e1m brzy zlep\u0161il naprosto \u00fachvatn\u00fd traverz vrcholu Modeon del Buinz (2 554m) – neji\u0161t\u011bn\u00e1 \u00fazk\u00e1 cesti\u010dka jakoby vy\u0161lapan\u00e1 jen od kamz\u00edk\u016f, n\u00e1dhern\u00e9 v\u00fdhledy a fotogenick\u00e9 skaln\u00ed st\u011bny a \u00fatvary. A p\u0159ekvapiv\u011b kozoro\u017eci byli tak\u00e9 jedin\u00ed, kdo n\u00e1s na t\u00e9to trase doprov\u00e1zel – a taky na n\u00e1s neust\u00e1le seshora shazoval kameny, tak\u017ee helma je zde v\u00edce ne\u017e nutnost!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Po traverzu n\u00e1s \u010dekal kr\u00e1tk\u00fd zaji\u0161t\u011bn\u00fd sestup do sedla Forca de la Val (2 360m). Na n\u011bkter\u00fdch m\u00edstech se ale je\u0161t\u011b p\u0159es stezku dr\u017eela sn\u011bhov\u00e1 pole , kter\u00e1 bylo mnohem bezpe\u010dn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed obej\u00edt ne\u017e p\u0159ej\u00edt, co\u017e n\u00e1m chv\u00edlemi trochu ub\u00edralo na u\u017e tak omezen\u00e9m \u010dase. Ze sedla jsem op\u011bt pokra\u010dovali dal\u0161\u00edm st\u0159\u00edd\u00e1n\u00edm zaji\u0161t\u011bn\u00fdch v\u00fdstup\u016f a n\u00e1dhern\u00fdch traverz\u016f vrchol\u016f Cima della Puartate (2 436) a Punta Plagnis (2 411m) a\u017e do sedla Forcella del Cregnedul (2 337m). Odtud je mo\u017enost si cestu trochu zkr\u00e1tit a rovnou sestoupit, zato ale hor\u0161\u00ed cestou – od pohledu velmi nep\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fdm a strm\u00fdm su\u0165ov\u00fdm svahem. My jsme pokra\u010dovali d\u00e1le sm\u011brem do sedla Forcella Lavinal dell‘ Orso (2 123m). Ne \u017ee by tahle trasa byla n\u011bjak\u00e1 v\u00fdhra, ale kles\u00e1n\u00ed je pozvoln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed a v\u011bt\u0161inou i zaji\u0161t\u011bn\u00e9. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jeliko\u017e jsme do sedla dorazili a\u017e kolem t\u0159et\u00ed hodiny odpoledne, museli jsme vzhledem k na\u0161im \u010dasov\u00fdm „nemo\u017enostem“ pokra\u010dov\u00e1n\u00ed po stezce „Anita Goitan“ a\u017e na vrchol Jof Fuart vzd\u00e1t – m\u011bli bychom p\u0159ed sebou toti\u017e je\u0161t\u011b jednou tak dlouhou trasu, a minim\u00e1ln\u011b t\u0159i hodiny ch\u016fze pouze na vrchol. Pokud by se sem ale p\u0159ece jen n\u011bkdo chystal – od pohledu tato trasa nen\u00ed moc chozen\u00e1, v\u011bt\u0161inou vede strm\u00fdm stoup\u00e1n\u00edm nebo traverzem travnat\u00e9ho svahu, v \u00favodn\u00ed \u010d\u00e1sti je veden\u00ed stezky dost ne\u010diteln\u00e9. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ze sedla jsme tedy s t\u011b\u017ek\u00fdm srdcem pokra\u010dovali v sestupu zp\u011bt do \u00fadol\u00ed. Cesta je ale p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e1 a pozvoln\u011b kles\u00e1, pouze do sedla Passo degli Scalini (2 022m) n\u00e1s \u010dekalo je\u0161t\u011b kr\u00e1tk\u00e9 stoup\u00e1n\u00ed. Odtud u\u017e je sestup strm\u011bj\u0161\u00ed, a to a\u017e k chat\u011b Casere Cregnedul di Sopra, kter\u00e1 byla ale bohu\u017eel b\u011bhem na\u0161\u00ed n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvy v rekonstrukci – a to se \u010dlov\u011bk tak t\u011b\u0161\u00ed, \u017ee si trochu zlep\u0161\u00ed n\u00e1ladu n\u011bjak\u00fdm to\u010den\u00fdm a hlavn\u011b vychlazen\u00fdm n\u00e1pojem. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nedalo se tedy nic d\u011blat – nejnudn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st cesty, kterou jsme m\u011bli p\u0159ed sebou jsme tedy museli absolvovat bez „osv\u011b\u017een\u00ed“. Od chaty jsme m\u011bli p\u0159ed sebou je\u0161t\u011b 4 kilometry cesty lesem – sice po rovin\u011b, ale t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 celou cestu bez v\u00fdhled\u016f. Stezka nakonec proch\u00e1z\u00ed kolem krav\u00edna Casere Parte di Mezzo, a napojuje se na silnici, po kter\u00e9 jsme stoupali p\u0159edchoz\u00ed den k chat\u011b Giacomo di Brazz\u00e1.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I kdy\u017e jsme na\u0161e h\u0159ebenov\u00e9 putov\u00e1n\u00ed nakonec nezakon\u010dili \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fdm vrcholem, byli jsme i tak naprosto ohromen\u00ed. N\u00e1dhern\u00e9 v\u00fdhledy a horsk\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edroda, zaji\u0161t\u011bn\u00e9 cesty, a hlavn\u011b opravdu minimum lid\u00ed – druh\u00fd den jsme potkali jen p\u00e1r lid\u00ed, a to a\u017e pouze na sestupu do \u00fadol\u00ed. Na z\u00e1v\u011br tedy trocha statistiky – n\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00ed den jsme u\u0161li celkem 11 kilometr\u016f, nastoupali jen 200 v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch metr\u016f, a sestoupali 1 200. Co se t\u00fd\u010de \u010dasu, hodn\u011b n\u00e1s zdr\u017eelo obch\u00e1zen\u00ed zm\u00edn\u011bn\u00fdch sn\u011bhov\u00fdch pol\u00ed, s \u010d\u00edm\u017e je lep\u0161\u00ed dop\u0159edu po\u010d\u00edtat. M\u00edt tak mo\u017enost je\u0161t\u011b jednoho p\u0159esp\u00e1n\u00ed s n\u00e1sledn\u00fdm v\u00fdstupem na Jof Fuart! Ale to t\u0159eba zase p\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u011b. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Sedlo Sella Buinz (2 460m)<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Pohled na Jof Fuart<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Kdy\u017e se mluv\u00ed o Julsk\u00fdch Alp\u00e1ch, v\u011bt\u0161ina lid\u00ed si jako prvn\u00ed vybav\u00ed poho\u0159\u00ed le\u017e\u00edc\u00ed ve Slovinsku, i kdy\u017e zasahuj\u00ed i […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4435,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4436","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4436","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=4436"}],"version-history":[{"count":56,"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4436\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4524,"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4436\/revisions\/4524"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/4435"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=4436"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=4436"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=4436"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}