{"id":944,"date":"2019-10-23T08:14:28","date_gmt":"2019-10-23T08:14:28","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/?p=944"},"modified":"2019-10-23T18:08:00","modified_gmt":"2019-10-23T18:08:00","slug":"vystup-na-kralovnu-tofan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/2019\/10\/23\/vystup-na-kralovnu-tofan\/","title":{"rendered":"V\u00fdstup na kr\u00e1lovnu Tofan"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Mohutn\u00e9 t\u0159\u00edtis\u00edcov\u00e9 \u0161t\u00edty horsk\u00e9 skupiny Tofana vytv\u00e1\u0159ej\u00ed n\u00e1dhernou p\u0159\u00edrodn\u00ed kulisu zn\u00e1m\u00e9mu dolomitsk\u00e9mu m\u011bste\u010dku Cortina d\u00b4Ampezzo. Skupinu tvo\u0159\u00ed t\u0159i vrcholy – Tofana di Rozes (3 225m), Tofana di Dentro (3 238m), a nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed Tofana di Mezzo (3 244m). My u\u017e n\u011bjakou dobu pokukovali pr\u00e1v\u011b po nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed ze t\u0159\u00ed Tofan, a to hlavn\u011b kv\u016fli legend\u00e1rn\u00ed zaji\u0161t\u011bn\u00e9 cest\u011b vedouc\u00ed na jej\u00ed vrchol. Ta vznikla spojen\u00edm ferraty Giuseppe Olivieri, kter\u00e1 vede na vrchol Punta Anna (2 731m), a na ni navazuj\u00edc\u00ed ferraty Gianni Aglio. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

K v\u00fdstupov\u00e9mu m\u00edstu na Tofanu di Mezzo jsme vyrazili z Cortiny sm\u011brem na sedlo (passo) Falzarego. Je\u0161t\u011b p\u0159ed sedlem se ale nach\u00e1z\u00ed zna\u010den\u00e1 odbo\u010dka, kter\u00e1 po \u0161t\u011brkov\u00e9 cest\u011b vede k chat\u011b (rifugio) Angelo Dibona (2 083m), u kter\u00e9 se d\u00e1 bezplatn\u011b zaparkovat. Odtud jsme se podle rozcestn\u00edku vydali k chat\u011b Pomedes (2 303m), kter\u00e1 m\u00e1 mimochodem \u00fa\u017easnou panoramatickou terasu, ze kter\u00e9 je v\u00fdhled snad na v\u0161echny nejzn\u00e1m\u011bj\u0161\u00ed dolomitsk\u00e9 vrcholy – nap\u0159. na Pelmo, Sorapiss, Antelao \u010di nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed Marmoladu. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Od chaty Pomedes jsme pokra\u010dovali su\u0165ovi\u0161t\u011bm a\u017e k n\u00e1stupu na ferratu Giuseppe Olivieri (C\/D), ke kter\u00e9 je to u\u017e pouh\u00fdch cca t\u0159icet minut. Ferrata zpo\u010d\u00e1tku nen\u00ed nijak n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e1 (v\u011bt\u0161inou obt\u00ed\u017enost B\/C), d\u00edky \u010demu\u017e si \u010dlov\u011bk m\u016f\u017ee u\u017e\u00edvat kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 v\u00fdhledy na sousedn\u00ed Tofanu di Rozes. Posledn\u00ed v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 metry pod vrcholkem Punty Anna ale za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 obt\u00ed\u017enost pom\u011brn\u011b stoupat, a n\u00e1sleduje n\u011bkolik nep\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fdch exponovan\u00fdch pas\u00e1\u017e\u00ed, kde nen\u00ed moc stup\u016f pro nohy. Asi za hodinu a p\u016fl lezen\u00ed stoj\u00edme na vrcholku, a n\u00e1\u0161 c\u00edl se n\u00e1m kone\u010dn\u011b ukazuje v pln\u00e9 kr\u00e1se. <\/p>\n\n\n

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Rifugio Pomedes<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Vpravo Marmolada, vlevo vzadu Pelmo<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Tofana di Rozes<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Vrchol Punta Anna<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n

Z vrcholku Punty Anna je mo\u017en\u00e9 sestoupit rovnou zp\u011bt k chat\u011b Angelo Dibona, my ale pokra\u010dujeme d\u00e1le. Jednoduchou ferratou cesta traverzuje pod vrcholem Torre Pomedes, a pot\u00e9 n\u00e1sleduje kr\u00e1tk\u00fd p\u011b\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdstup su\u0165ovi\u0161t\u011bm, a\u017e k navazuj\u00edc\u00ed zaji\u0161t\u011bn\u00e9 cest\u011b Gianni Aglio (D). Ta za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 zlehka, jednoduch\u00fdm \u017eeb\u0159\u00edkem (A\/B). Brzy se ale dost\u00e1v\u00e1me k jej\u00edmu nejproslulej\u0161\u00edmu \u00faseku – skaln\u00ed v\u011b\u017ei Torre Aglio a obt\u00ed\u017en\u00e9mu, a pom\u011brn\u011b silov\u011b n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e9mu traverzu (C\/D) s m\u00edstem jen na \u0161pi\u010dky bot, vedouc\u00edmu nav\u00edc nad velkou hloubkou. Pro ty, co zrovna neholduj\u00ed traverz\u016fm je zde mo\u017enost je\u0161t\u011b p\u0159ed touto pas\u00e1\u017e\u00ed pokra\u010dovat ferratou (D) nahoru, p\u0159es vrcholek Torre Aglio. <\/p>\n\n\n

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Traverz Torre Pomedes<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Traverz na Torre Aglio<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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\"\"<\/p>\n\n\n

Za Torre Aglio sestupujeme do sedla Bus de Tofana (2 910m), kde se nach\u00e1z\u00ed posledn\u00ed mo\u017en\u00e9 sestupov\u00e9 m\u00edsto k chat\u011b Dibona – na vrchol je to toti\u017e je\u0161t\u011b asi hodina cesty. Ze sedla d\u00e1le pokra\u010dujeme ferratou, kter\u00e1 ale na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed ztr\u00e1c\u00ed s p\u0159ib\u00fdvaj\u00edc\u00ed v\u00fd\u0161kou na n\u00e1ro\u010dnosti. Posledn\u00edch sto v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch metr\u016f u\u017e se ale jedn\u00e1 sp\u00ed\u0161e o neji\u0161t\u011bn\u00e9 jednoduch\u00e9 lezen\u00ed. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Po necel\u00fdch sedmi hodin\u00e1ch kone\u010dn\u011b cel\u00ed vy\u010derpan\u00ed stoj\u00edme u vrcholov\u00e9ho k\u0159\u00ed\u017ee Tofany di Mezzo, odkud m\u00e1me n\u00e1dhern\u00e9 v\u00fdhledy na ob\u011b jej\u00ed sestry. Na vrcholku jsme \u00fapln\u011b sami – jedin\u00e1 skupinka, kterou jsme po cest\u011b potkali, se odpojila ji\u017e v sedle Bus de Tofana. Nav\u00edc, po zru\u0161en\u00ed lanovky, jej\u00ed\u017e horn\u00ed stanice se nach\u00e1z\u00ed p\u0159\u00edmo na samotn\u00e9m vrcholu, u\u017e nen\u00ed Tofana di Mezzo pro b\u011b\u017en\u00e9 turisty tak l\u00e1kav\u00e1 (d\u00edky bohu). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sestoupit z vrcholu je mo\u017en\u00e9 bu\u010f stejnou cestou, zp\u011bt do sedla Bus de Tofana, nebo pokra\u010dovat na opa\u010dnou stranu, sm\u011brem k sousedn\u00ed Tofan\u011b di Dentro. Jeliko\u017e jsme vyrazili na konci z\u00e1\u0159\u00ed, byla u\u017e sestupov\u00e1 cesta docela zasn\u011b\u017een\u00e1 – na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed je ale zaji\u0161t\u011bn\u00e1 ocelov\u00fdm lanem. Brzy se dost\u00e1v\u00e1me do mal\u00e9ho sedla mezi ob\u011bma Tofanami, kde se cesta d\u00e1le rozd\u011bluje – odtud je mo\u017en\u00e9 pokra\u010dovat rovnou na vrchol, nebo sestoupit k chat\u011b Camillo Giussani (2 580m), u kter\u00e9 se d\u00e1 napojit na zna\u010denou cestu zp\u011bt k parkovi\u0161ti u chaty Dibona. Sestupov\u00e1 trasa je ale ozna\u010dena jako sm\u011br „Cantore“, co\u017e je n\u00e1zev pro historickou chatu z 19. stolet\u00ed (p\u016fvodn\u011b rifugio Tofana), kter\u00e1 byla za v\u00e1le\u010dn\u00e9ho obdob\u00ed vyu\u017eita k vojensk\u00fdm \u00fa\u010del\u016fm, a kter\u00e1 dodnes stoj\u00ed pr\u00e1v\u011b vedle chaty Giussani. Nutno ale zm\u00ednit, \u017ee tato trasa nen\u00ed nijak zna\u010den\u00e1 a vede pom\u011brn\u011b n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00fdm ter\u00e9nem – orientovali jsme se jen pomoc\u00ed mapy a kamenn\u00fdch mu\u017e\u00edk\u016f. Z\u00e1v\u011bre\u010dn\u00e1 \u010d\u00e1st sestupu k chat\u011b Guissani je ale opravdu t\u0159e\u0161ni\u010dkou na dortu – strm\u00e9 a nekone\u010dn\u011b vypadaj\u00edc\u00ed su\u0165ov\u00e9 pole. Pokud ale \u010dlov\u011bk chytne „spr\u00e1vn\u00fd rytmus“, d\u00e1 se po kamenech celkem pohodln\u011b doklouzat a\u017e rovnou k chat\u011b. I tak n\u00e1m ale tato z\u00e1bava trvala dobr\u00fdch dvacet minut – bohu\u017eel si ale t\u011blo na tento stereotypn\u00ed pohyb za tu chvilku stihlo zvyknout, tak\u017ee jsme m\u011bli tro\u0161ku probl\u00e9m s norm\u00e1ln\u00ed ch\u016fz\u00ed, a chv\u00edli to tak vypadalo, \u017ee na Tofanu dorazila zombie apokalypsa. <\/p>\n\n\n

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Vrchol Tofany di Mezzo<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>
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Pohled na Tofanu di Dentro<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n

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Su\u0165ov\u00e9 pole k chat\u011b Giussani<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n

U chaty Giussani u\u017e jsme se napojili na zna\u010denou cestu, a pokra\u010dovali p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fdm \u0161irok\u00fdm chodn\u00edkem zp\u011bt a\u017e na parkovi\u0161t\u011b, kam jsme dorazili a\u017e v osm hodin ve\u010der. V\u00fdstup na Tofanu di Mezzo je pom\u011brn\u011b \u010dasov\u011b n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e1 z\u00e1le\u017eitost – n\u00e1m v\u00fdstup i sestup zabral dobr\u00fdch 10 hodin. Co se t\u00fd\u010de obou zm\u00edn\u011bn\u00fdch ferrat vedouc\u00edch na vrchol, samy o sob\u011b nemaj\u00ed moc n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00fdch pas\u00e1\u017e\u00ed (max. p\u00e1r \u00fasek\u016f C\/D). P\u0159esto jsou ale pom\u011brn\u011b dost dlouh\u00e9 a fyzicky vy\u010derp\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed. Ide\u00e1ln\u00ed je tedy vyrazit pom\u011brn\u011b brzy, nebo zvolit variantu s p\u0159esp\u00e1n\u00edm na chat\u011b, a rozhodn\u011b jen za dobr\u00e9ho po\u010das\u00ed. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

–<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Mohutn\u00e9 t\u0159\u00edtis\u00edcov\u00e9 \u0161t\u00edty horsk\u00e9 skupiny Tofana vytv\u00e1\u0159ej\u00ed n\u00e1dhernou p\u0159\u00edrodn\u00ed kulisu zn\u00e1m\u00e9mu dolomitsk\u00e9mu m\u011bste\u010dku Cortina d\u00b4Ampezzo. Skupinu tvo\u0159\u00ed t\u0159i vrcholy – […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1127,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-944","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/944","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=944"}],"version-history":[{"count":37,"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/944\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1160,"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/944\/revisions\/1160"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1127"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=944"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=944"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mountain-addict-diary.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=944"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}